A To Z of Modding

[Paras Thacker]

Sorry but all in english:

Many thanks to Gordy and anyone else who contributed to the original thread.

Lopez


A

AT case to ATX case conversion
ATX case specifications (for building custom cases
Anodising: On your own

B

Baybus: Premade
Baybus: On/Off
Baybus: Dual Voltage, Dual LED 12v/off/7v
Blowhole guide

Blow Holes

Masking tape:Basically mask around the area you are cutting, say up to 4-6 inches around the external area of the cutting line. What this does is protect your case from flying bits of metal that may cause scratches on its path. Usually I cover the rest of the exposed area with paper, just in case (this only applies if you can't cut from the back of the panel, explained in "Marking out").
Cutting fluid: Use it if you can, it will cool and lubricate the area your cutting and the holesaw itself which means less friction, quicker and cleaner cuts, which is nice .
Support: If you can, clamp the side that you are cutting against some wood so you don't "fall" through the hole once its cut. Also use cloth or old clothes to protect the paint on your case, use a sponge under the clamps surfaces as it helps prevent any damage.
Marking out: Get a template for the hole size you wish to cut and stick it to the back of the panel if you can (the side that's not painted and faces the inside of your computer), this means that if you do go slightly wrong you cant see it from the outside .
Drilling speed: Take it slow! You need to find your speed, to do this start rotating the holesaw and cut, don't apply too much pressure, make it so its just touching/cutting the metal not eating it . Once you have it cutting then start to add pressure, not much though... if the holesaw is causing huge vibrations and jolts occasionally then your either going to slow or applying to much pressure, so try releasing a little pressure and speeding things up till its stable... and keep the fluid coming....
Position: Try to hold the drill/holesaw straight, so the edge of the holesaw is in constant contact and not uneven (tilted), this will ensure smooth cutting and cleaner cuts.
After: Once cut, use a file or some decent sand paper (or even a dremel if you have one) to round the edges of your cut, don't want any blood loss now .

Bloo LED's

Step 1: Find any thing that contains an LED, if its not blue or white it will need replacing
Step 2: Gain Access to location of LED in this example we will use an MS Keyboard you will need to find the hidden screw in the back under a sticker .
Step 3: Check out the old LED's there are two main types 3 mm and 5mm you need to work out which you have .
Step 4: Check the polarity of the LED (IE Which way round it it is ) MAKE SURE YOU WRITE THIS DOWN ITS VERY IMPORTANT .
Step 5: Whip out soldering iron and de-solder /remove the old LED's
Step 6: Place the new LED's in their position carefully solder them in place , ideally you shouldn’t touch the solder with the soldering iron for the perfect soldered joint .
Step 7: Rebuild the keyboard/item finding all those little screws

C

Cables rounded
Case badges
Custom Case badges

Coolermaster

Buy here!
Wavemaster
ATCS 200
ATCS 201
ATCS 210
ATCS 310
ATC 220B-VX1

Case Window

Step 1: Rip open the packet with a knife , stick instructions back together with sellotape, Only joking
Step 1B: Open packet, don’t lose the washer .
Step 2: Decide on a location for the window. Allow one half inch of clearance between the windows edge and inside edge of the chassis.
Step 3: Place the window on the case in the location
Step 4: Place the washer on the case and in contact with the edge of the window. Place the point of a pencil inside the washer. The result will create a small space between the pencil mark and the window. Draw round the window.
Step 5: Cover the case panel in masking tape and prepare your dremel or jigsaw .
Step 6: Cut slowly and carefully around the line not forcing your weapon of choice
Step 7: With a file or de-burring tool, de-burr the freshly cut edges
Step 8: Install the narrow opening of the moulding over the edge of the opening in the case with the rounded side of the moulding facing out. If the molding is too long to fit in the opening, cut it to length.
Step 8: Install the window from inside the housing, by pulling or pushing the inside edge of the moulding inward and then slipping one corner of the window into the moulding groove. Continue from this point, all the way around the edge of the window until all the window edge is seated in the moulding groove.
Step 9: Place the locking strip in its groove in the moulding.
Tip For Haluminium Luvers: Cut and Mark the panel on the outside

D

Dremel: Wicked case modding tool
Dremel vs B&D RTX
Digi Doc: Computer Thermometer

Decibels
dB Adding

What's interesting here is that each 10dB added makes the sound TEN TIMES as loud. So, 90dB is quite loud, but 100dB is ten times louder, and 110dB is 100 times louder, etc.

Just for comparison:

0 dB Threshold of hearing
10 dB Rustling of leaves
20 dB Whisper
30 dB Quiet conversation
40 dB Average home
50 dB Normal conversation
60 dB Busy shop
70 dB City street
80 dB Busy workplace
90 dB Underground railway
100 dB Pneumatic drill 10ft away
110 dB Propeller aircraft taking off
120 dB Jet aircraft taking off

Posted by Lowe

E

EL Cable


F

Fans Papst: Ultra Quiet fans
Fans: Glowing
Fans: LED
Fans - Volt Modding
Fan mate
Fan painting
Fan specs
Floppy cable shortening
Fanbus

G

H

I

J

K

[Paras Thacker]

L

LCD's

Matrix Orbital
Crystalfontz
Milnist
LCD Driver
LCD Setup: parallel

LED's

LED Calculator
LED: Which way

Lian Li's

Lian Li PC-35
Lian Li PC-60
Lian Li PC-65
Lian-Li PC-68
Lian-Li PC-7
Lian Li-PC6010 "Aquarium" Case
Lian Li-PC05

Lian Li Bezels
Lian Li Bezels

M



N

Neon IDE Cables
Newq Gold DSP Review

O

P

Perspex and Sheet Aluminium
PSU's: Buy
Painting
Painting: Drive facias

PSU: What you need
AGP video card - 20-30W
PCI video card - 20W
AMD Athlon 900MHz-1.1GHz - 50W
AMD Athlon 1.2MHz-1.4GHz - 55-65W
Intel Pentium III 800MHz-1.26GHz - 30W
Intel Pentium 4 1.4GHz-1.7GHz - 65W
Intel Pentium 4 1.8GHz-2.0GHz - 75W
Intel Celeron 700MHz-900MHz - 25W
Intel Celeron 1.0GHz-1.1GHz - 35W
ATX Motherboard - 30W-40W
128MB RAM - 10W
256MB RAM - 20W
12X or higher IDE CD-RW Drive - 25W
32X or higher IDE CD-ROM Drive - 20W
10x or higher IDE DVD-ROM Drive - 20W
SCSI CD-RW Drive - 17W
SCSI CD-ROM Drive - 12W
5400RPM IDE Hard Drive - 10W
7200RPM IDE Hard Drive - 13W
7200RPM SCSI Hard Drive - 24W
10000RPM SCSI Hard Drive - 30W
Floppy Drive - 5W
Network Card - 4W
Modem - 5W
Sound Card - 5W
SCSI Controller Card - 20W
Firewire/USB Controller Card - 10W
Case Fan - 3W
CPU Fan - 3W

Q

Quietening a noisy Case

R

The Rheostat Baybus
Rheostat Baybus Guide
Voltage Regulator Baybus Guide
Rounding Cables

S

Soundproofing
Shuttle SV24
Shuttle SV24: Modding
Stealth Drive
Soldering: How do I solder?
Soldering: How to
Stealth floppy mod
Stealth blowhole guide


T

U

UV Products
More UV Products

V

Vapochill into Lian-Li Conversion Guide

W

Water Cooling
Water Cutting - Aluminium
Water Cutting - Stainless Steel
Water cutting - Hardened Steel
Water Cutting Companies Using CAD/CAM



X

Y

Z

Zalman: Quiet products

[Paras Thacker]

Stealth Drives the Short & Simple Version

Gather together some of those sticky pads and a Phillips screwdriver.

Decide whether to keep front bevel on your CD drive or not. My preference is to remove it.

Remove/slacken screws from side of CD-ROM to slide it forward to that you can remove front bezel. Throw it towards bin.

Take one hamamillium face plate and bend side pieces gently until they snap off. They will do quite easily.

Position large sticky pads on the front of the CD tray - the coffee-cup holder - the bit that slides in and out

Return CD drive back into case and then push it in some more so that it is well recessed into the case. Tighten up just a couple of side screws to hold CD drive in place.

Offer up your hamamillium plate - into the recess - onto the face of CD drive. Have it make contact with sticky pads. Press home.

Slacken/remove side screws and reposition CD drive so that newly mounted face plate is level/flush with the front of your hamamillium beauty.

Replace and tighten all CD drive side screws.

Now for the tricky bit. The eject button.

Test what you have already done by using Windows Explorer and right clicking on the cd drive icon and 'eject'. Drive will neatly slide out. You will see to the lower right corner the small black micro-switch button that is the eject button. Press it and move you finger out of the way quickly. CD tray slides neatly back home.

Now, all that is needed is a way of opening the CD tray without having to use Windows Explorer. Find something - anything - that is just a tad smaller than the distance between the small black micro-switch thingy and the back of your newly affixed hamamillium face plate. At a guess and without bothering to look - sommat like 5-6mm. Take your 'object' (I think I used a plastic motherboard mounting thingy) and affix it using a small sticky pad to the inside of the hamamillium face plate adjacent to the micro-switch. The aim is to find an object that will not touch the micro-switch unless and until you gently press on the hamamillium face plate causing the 'object' to touch the micro-switch.

Ideally the 'object' will be wood or soft plastic. Something that you can trim down in size with a craft knife.

I carried out my stealth mod on two drives about 6 months ago. In use every day and no problems to date.

Hope the above makes some sense. If it doesn't then start drinking. When you have drunk as much as the writer has then it should make sense

By that very nice gentleman, 2blue4u


Update

Having just done it myself I have a few tips for you as well.

If you have a Plexwriter drive then the actual eject button can be ripped of and stuck to the haluminium face plate and you then have it at the exact right height for the button pressing .

By Gordy

[Paras Thacker]

Coolermaster Guide

ATCS 100
Drive Bay: 5.25' Bays (exposed) x 3
3.5' Bays (exposed) x 2
3.5' Bays (hidden) x 6
Cooling: One 80 mmx 80 mmx 25 mm Fan attached top panel (out)
One 120mm auxiliary fan-ducting system
Dimension: 497 mm(L) x 196 mm(W) x 452 mm(H)

ATCS 101
Drive Bay: 5.25' Bays (exposed) x 5
3.5' Bays (exposed) x 1
3.5' Bays (shadow) x 2
Cooling: One 80 mm x 80 mmx 25 mm Fan attached top panel (out)
One 80 mm x 80 mmx 25 mm Fan inside of the caseing (in)
One 80 mm x 80 mm x 25 mm Fan attached back panel (out)
Dimension: 527.5mm (L) x 196 mm (W) x 484mm (H)

ATCS 110
Drive Bay: 5.25" Bays (Exposed) x 4
3.5" Bays (Exposed) x 2
3.5" Bays (Shadow) x 5
Cooling: Dual 80 mmx 80 mmx 25 mm Fan attached front panel (Intake)
one 80 mmx 80 mmx 25 mm Fan attached top panel (Exhaust)
one 80 mmx 80 mmx 25 mm Fan attached back panel (Exhaust)
Dimension: 535 mm(L) x196 mm(W) x 484 mm(H)

ATCS 200
Drive Bay: 5.25' Bays (exposed) x 3
3.5' Bays (exposed) x 2
3.5' Bays (hidden) x 6
Cooling: Dual 80 mm x 8 mm x 25 mm Fan attached front panel.(in)
One 80 mm x 80 mm x 25 mm Fan attached back panel.(out)
One 80 mm x 80 mm x 25 mm Fan attached top panel.(out)
Dimension: 497 mm(L) x 196 mm(W) x 452 mm(H)

ATCS 201
Drive Bay: 5.25' Bays (exposed) x 4
3.5' Bays (exposed) x 2
3.5' Bays (hidden) x 4
Cooling: Dual 80mm x 80mm x 25 mm Fan attached front panel. (in)
One 80mm x 80mm x 25 mm Fan attached back panel (out)
One 80mm x 80mm x 25 mmFan attached top panel. (out)
Dimension: 497 mm(L) x 196 mm(W) x 452 mm(H)

ATCS 210
Drive Bay: 5.25' Bays (Exposed) x 4
3.5' Bays (Exposed) x 2
3.5' Bays (Shadow) x 4
Cooling: one 80 mmx 80 mmx 25 mm Fan attached top panel (Exhaust)
one 80 mmx 80 mmx 25 mm Fan attached back panel (Exhaust)
Dimension: 520 mm(L) x 196 mm(W) x 452 mm(H)

ATCS 310
Drive Bay: 5.25" Bays(exposed) X 5
3.5" Bays(exposed) X 1
3.5" Bays(hidden) X 5
Cooling: One 300mm Cross Fan blown driectly onto motherboard.
Four 80 x 80 x 25mm Fan attached back panel
Two 120 x 120 x 25mm Fan attached drive bay
Dimension: 592 mm(L) X 363 mm(W) X 558 mm(H)

ATCS 400
Drive Bay: 5.25' Bays (exposed) x 8
3.5' Bays (exposed) x 2
Cooling: Three 80 mm fans attached inside of case (in)
Two 80 mm fans attached back panel (out)
Dimension: 673 x 440 x 260 mm

ATCS 500
Drive Bay: 5.25" Bays (Exposed) x 2
3.5" Bays (Exposed) x 2
3.5" Bays (Shadow) x 2
Cooling: Top, 1 x (60 x 60 x 15 mm) case fan (Exhaust)
Bottom, 1 x (80 x 80 x 25 mm) case fan (Intake)
Dimension: 520 mm(L) x 196 mm(W) x 380 mm(H)

By GT3_God

[Paras Thacker]

MS Mouse Painting - Applies To Almost ANY Plastic Components

Step 1:

Remove the 4 oval shaped 'glide pads' on the underside of the mouse, and unscrew the screws behind them

Step 2:

Separate the red base from the rest of the mouse's body, then undo the two screws on the inside top of the button\body assembly

Step 3:

sand down the body assembly with 1200 grit wet and dry sandpaper, then wash with fairy liquid and water, dry well.

If u wish to spray the button assembly..........IT TAKES AGES! Mainly due to the fact MS have used a rubberised coating on all the dark grey areas on the mouse...............which reacts with paint
I scraped it off gently with a Stanley knife blade, and then sanded with 1200, and washed\Dried

Step 4:

spray the mouse parts with plastic primer, and allow to dry. Then give them a very light sanding again......wash\dry.......then.......spray them the desired colours

for more detail on the spraying process check the 'paint your drives in 8 easy steps' guide

Step 5:

Once dry (24 hours) re-assemble the mouse, and give it a polish

By Iver Athlon

Update

Spraying Plastic Components

If you have a plastic computer component [mouse, keyboard, monitor . . . ] and want to spray it a standard colour, black for example, you will get a much better result if you use dye. Halfords sell spray dye called flexible vinyl paint, and it's very good for spraying. The advantage of a dye is that it doesn't need any surface preparation other than a clean, and if scratched it is black underneath. It keeps the original texture of the plastic too, so if using a mouse it won't make it slippy and shiny.

By Caged

Yet Another Update

In this case I believe a little more info is needed :

any surface that is going to painted needs to be prepared. the more time spent doing this the better the results.

Sanding

Sanding of items, be they metal or plastic is absolutely necessary, this gives the paint a good surface to stick to, and so will not flake off.

For computer related products i suggest the coarsest paper u consider using is 600grit. On detailed components like drive fronts I suggest 800-1000grit as the coarsest. Always use 'Wet & Dry' sandpaper.....wet

Cleaning

Cleaning is best done with fairy liquid and a tooth brush. This removes all the nasty grease (finger prints etc...), waxes (polishes etc...), and the mess left behind from all that Wet & Dry sanding. Make sure the object is dried straight after rinsing, and that its done very well. just 1 drop of water will make a right mess when spraying. i always use a compressor to blast out the water that gets into the crannies as its easier and faster

Priming

Like sanding this gives the top coat a better surface to adhere to. Primer will fill in minor sanding scratches as well as acting as a 'grip'. it will also act as a barrier if the object has something nasty on it (like a small amount of polish or a incompatible paint...see 'important info' at bottom) that would make the top coat 'react' or 'pickle'.

Plastic items need a 'plastic primer' whilst metal items need normal primer.

Get a primer closest to the colour of your top coat. to my knowledge only.....grey.....white....red.....yellow are available

Make sure the primer can is at room temp.

Shake it like a mad man for at least 5 mins.

Hold the can 30cm or 12" away from the object at all times when spraying.

Use constant sweeping motions to ensure even cover.

When spraying large areas....spray left -2- right, until covered....then spray up -2- down. This will also ensure even cover

Primer will be suitably dry in around 5 hours if at room temp+

A Primed surface should be very lightly sanded with 1200+ grit paper and washed before top coat is applied, this will give nice smooth results.

Top coat

Use exactly the same methods as with primer. Only extra things to watch are:
Don’t spray on a cold day or the paint will 'bloom' or go misty

Top coat takes at least 24 hours to dry properly.

if using a cutting compound like t-cut (see below) the paint must be left for around two weeks

Lacquer

EXACTLY the same as 'top coat'. Don’t spray lacquer on too thick, only a couple of dust coats are needed

Cutting compounds & Waxes

Cutting compounds like T-Cut are mild abrasives in liquid form. These will smooth out and polish painted surfaces and give even more impressive results, but be warned use too much\rub to hard and say goodbye to Mr topcoat and hello to Mr primer. Waxes like Turtle wax are non abrasive polishes that will add that 'showroom sparkle' and finishing touch to any painted surface

Important Info

There are many different types of paint. ie. enamel\acrylic\cellulose etc.... these different paints will react with each other, this is bad. To avoid this only use 1 type of paint on your project, Acrylic is best and most widely available.

Spray in a dust free, warm, well ventilated area. This will give your project the best results and be a bit kinder on your lungs

Spray cans are far from ideal for large areas like side panels due to their small spray area. a compressor will give much better results as the nozzle is adjustable to give virtually any size\shape jet u could ever want

Update by the uber-helpful Iver Athlon

[Paras Thacker]

Bios Modding


The EnergyStar pic in the BIOS is in a proprietary format (.EPA). We'll create a regular BMP file, and convert it to EPA format. These are the tools you'll need:
CBROM 2.0 or higher, BMP to EPA, A fresh copy of your BIOS and a Compatible version of AWDFLASH for your board

(Probably on the motherboard CD)

Step 1:

Create a 1-bit (black and white) image that's 136x84 pixels in paint as anti aliasing has to be off.

Step 2:

Add a logo of your choice - white only at the moment

Step 3:

Use a freeware version of BMP2EPA ( you can use the windows or dos version) and load the bitmap, if it is wrong size or format, it will lt u know

Step 4:

Then add colour

Step 5:

Now that we have our EPA image, we'll have to replace the existing one in your BIOS file. This is where CBROM comes in. Here’s the command:

cbrom kt7_ul.bin /epa newpic.epa

Substitute for the name of your BIOS file.

Step 6:

Now comes time to flash your system BIOS with the new file. You'll want to backup your BIOS. If anything happens and the new BIOS doesn't work properly, we'll use the old BIOS file to re-flash it. Most Award BIOSes nowadays have a chunk of code that acts as a failsafe if the BIOS is corrupted. It only has support for very minimal hardware (floppy drive and ISA video card), but it'll help you get your old BIOS back. I suggest making a bootable floppy with awdflash and your old BIOS image on it. You don't need a CONFIG.SYS, but create an AUTOEXEC.BAT file and include this one line:

awdflash oldbios.bin /py /sn

This will automatically replace the current BIOS with the one specified. Another way (in case the failsafe is also corrupted), is to get an extra BIOS chip from your motherboard manufacturer. Most will charge a nominal fee (around $15US) and will send you a chip in the mail. If something ever happens to your BIOS and you can't boot at all, you can yank the old chip off the board and use the new one in it's place. Lets get down to it:

awdflash kt7_ul.bin
Again, substitute for your BIOS file.

Step 7:

At this point, AWDFLASH will load and ask if you want to save the old BIOS. If you haven't created a rescue disk already, choose yes, then no when it asks you if you want to program the BIOS. Create the disk and go back into AWDFLASH.
Otherwise, hit no to save the old file, and yes to continue. It'll take 5-15 seconds to write and verify the new BIOS. Don't worry if it skips a chunk.

When it's completed, Hit F1 or Hit the reset button on your PC. With a little luck, she'll come on no problem with your new logo!

BMPtoEPA DOS version
BMPtoEPA Windows version
CBRom (2.01a)
You will need to get your own AWDFLASH as it is different from mobo to mobo

By GT3 God

[Paras Thacker]

Bios Modding


The EnergyStar pic in the BIOS is in a proprietary format (.EPA). We'll create a regular BMP file, and convert it to EPA format. These are the tools you'll need:
CBROM 2.0 or higher, BMP to EPA, A fresh copy of your BIOS and a Compatible version of AWDFLASH for your board

(Probably on the motherboard CD)

Step 1:

Create a 1-bit (black and white) image that's 136x84 pixels in paint as anti aliasing has to be off.

Step 2:

Add a logo of your choice - white only at the moment

Step 3:

Use a freeware version of BMP2EPA ( you can use the windows or dos version) and load the bitmap, if it is wrong size or format, it will lt u know

Step 4:

Then add colour

Step 5:

Now that we have our EPA image, we'll have to replace the existing one in your BIOS file. This is where CBROM comes in. Here’s the command:

cbrom kt7_ul.bin /epa newpic.epa

Substitute for the name of your BIOS file.

Step 6:

Now comes time to flash your system BIOS with the new file. You'll want to backup your BIOS. If anything happens and the new BIOS doesn't work properly, we'll use the old BIOS file to re-flash it. Most Award BIOSes nowadays have a chunk of code that acts as a failsafe if the BIOS is corrupted. It only has support for very minimal hardware (floppy drive and ISA video card), but it'll help you get your old BIOS back. I suggest making a bootable floppy with awdflash and your old BIOS image on it. You don't need a CONFIG.SYS, but create an AUTOEXEC.BAT file and include this one line:

awdflash oldbios.bin /py /sn

This will automatically replace the current BIOS with the one specified. Another way (in case the failsafe is also corrupted), is to get an extra BIOS chip from your motherboard manufacturer. Most will charge a nominal fee (around $15US) and will send you a chip in the mail. If something ever happens to your BIOS and you can't boot at all, you can yank the old chip off the board and use the new one in it's place. Lets get down to it:

awdflash kt7_ul.bin
Again, substitute for your BIOS file.

Step 7:

At this point, AWDFLASH will load and ask if you want to save the old BIOS. If you haven't created a rescue disk already, choose yes, then no when it asks you if you want to program the BIOS. Create the disk and go back into AWDFLASH.
Otherwise, hit no to save the old file, and yes to continue. It'll take 5-15 seconds to write and verify the new BIOS. Don't worry if it skips a chunk.

When it's completed, Hit F1 or Hit the reset button on your PC. With a little luck, she'll come on no problem with your new logo!

BMPtoEPA DOS version
BMPtoEPA Windows version
CBRom (2.01a)
You will need to get your own AWDFLASH as it is different from mobo to mobo

By GT3 God

[Paras Thacker]

LED swap'in

so you wanna change ur pants red\green Case\Baybus\Cd Drive\etc... LED for a luvely new Bl0000 one do ya heres how (extremely easy)

the above pic is what ur LED will look like. Note what colour wire attaches to what side of the LED's element.

Chop off old LED, and throw it away for ruining ur case with its red'ness\green'ness

strip back 1cm of the sleveing coving the case wires

slide on around 2-3cm of heat shrink to each wire. (or you can use electrical tape once soldered). this is to stop it shorting out on the case\itsself

solder on the wires to the correct legs of the led (u did rember to rember didnt j00?)

slide the heatshrink over the joints and heat up until shrunk, or if u aint that posh use electrical tape now

job done

if you are pants with a soldering iron, terminal block (avaible from all electrical component shops and places like B&Q\Wickes) very cheeply, is the next best option. if u dont know its like a screw wire clamp thing)

By Iver Athlon

[Paras Thacker]

The UFO Mod

The UFO mod is when the string is placed around the edges of the underside of the case, so the string its self is not visible but the glow is, making it look like the case is floating!!!!

You will need:

Hot glue gun
Soldering iron
Side cutters
Shrink Wrap
Stanley knife
Hair dryer
Possibly a drill
Possibly a small rubber grommet

Ok, first things first…….hooking the new wire up to the inverter to make sure it all works:

Strip back about 2-3cm of the blue \ whatever coloured covering. Once you have done this you should see 2 strands of very thin silver wire and 1 thick beige coloured wire. Twist the two thin wires together and use a Stanley knife to scratch about 1cm of the beige covering off the end of the thick wire.
Now place one piece of shrink wrap about 3cm long onto the neon string (not the bits we just striped, along the whole diameter of the string) and place two bits about 3-4 cm long onto each of the inverter wires (one piece of wrap per wire).
Solder the two thin wires that are now twisted together as one, to one of the inverter wires, and solder the thick wire to the other inverter wire.
Now move both pieces of shrink-wrap that you placed over the inverter wires down so they cover the joints, and shrink them with your sisters / mom's hair dryer
(if you're a man with a hairdryer I worry!J). Remember that other piece of shrink wrap that's on the string, well move that up to the joint u just made, and push it so it goes about 1 cm over both of the shrink wrapped joints u made earlier, making a 'y' shape.

Ok…….. Now plug the inverter into your computer via the 4-pin molex connector and turn it on! Is it making a lovely neon glow?…….ah good

Now to stick it to the underside of your computer:

This is where u might need the drill. If your case has got a removable motherboard tray like the ATCS cases, you're probably going to have to drill a small hole in the bottom of your case at the back. The whole back on these cases are removable, so you cannot just thread the cable through the back, and loop it to the underneathL if you did you would not be able to remove the MB tray. If you do drill a hole, MAKE SURE YOU USE A RUBBER GROMET as pictured above, because the hole will be sharp and cut through the string in time (which would leave the inverter pumping 100v! into your case as well as the string)

Now you should have the string so it can be fixed to the bottom of the case.

Get your hot glue gun and put a small drop on the case, place the cable into the glue, hold it till it drys then 2inches along do another small drop of glue………….and so on.

By Iver Athlon